Culture or Costume? Chavarría’s Oaxaca Slip On Has the Internet Talking

Willy Chavarría and adidas Originals unveiled a bold new collaboration this weekend in Puerto Rico, introducing the Oaxaca Slip On, a modern twist on the traditional Mexican huarache. Revealed during a panel at the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, the shoe sparked instant conversation, blending heritage design with contemporary streetwear aesthetics. But the launch has not come without controversy.
Inspired by the iconic huarache sandal, a staple of Mexican and Chicano culture, the Oaxaca Slip On features a chunky grip sole and an open-toe, slip-on silhouette crafted in premium black leather. Photographer Marco Ovando shot the campaign, which stars Mexican artist Juan Berthau modeling the shoes with white socks, though the look seems just as suited for bare feet and a summer fit.
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The panel discussion centered around legacy and innovation, featuring speakers like adidas Originals Design Director Rafael Mayorga, Archival Specialist Sandra Trapp, and Director of Storytelling Valentina Benitez Castellanos. Chavarría, whose past collections often engage with themes of identity and social justice, emphasized the importance of cultural connection in the project.
“This incredible experience here in Puerto Rico is for the people… it’s not just an exclusive archive presentation for people in Hollywood or New York and the elite,” Chavarría told Complex Magazine. “That’s the kind of work I like to do with adidas too.”
Chavarría later joined Bad Bunny on stage at his Coliseo concert, further cementing the connection between the designer, the artist, and Puerto Rican cultural moments. The shoe was introduced as part of the broader adidas Originals para Bad Bunny archive, showcasing 148 sneakers associated with the Puerto Rican icon.
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The Oaxaca Slip On: Style Statement or Step Too Far?
Following the reveal, criticism emerged online. Some commenters questioned Chavarría’s ties to Oaxaca and the potential for cultural appropriation. One Instagram user wrote, “The fact that a designer who isn’t Mexican (because he’s not) takes the liberty of naming his collection after a Mexican state, without even knowing or understanding the textile traditions from there… seems just awful to me.”
“But that’s how the fashion industry works…no matter what, the goal is to sell. Even if that means pretending to be ‘proud of my roots and where I come from.’ We’ve heard that line way too many times already,” they added.
Others asked whether any of the profits would benefit artisan communities in Oaxaca or if local collaborators were involved. Some pointed to the manufacturing origins, noting that the shoes were reportedly made in China or Vietnam, with Adidas producing the majority of its footwear in the latter.
Willy Chavarría, who was born in California to a Mexican-American father and Irish-American mother, has built a brand rooted in Chicano urban fashion. His collections often explore themes of migrant identity, queerness, and cultural fusion. While he positions the Oaxaca Slip On as a tribute to his Mexican roots, questions about authenticity and representation have surfaced, particularly regarding the use of Oaxaca’s name and heritage.
As of now, no release date has been announced for the Oaxaca Slip On. Adidas and Chavarría have not yet addressed the criticisms publicly. In the meantime, the conversation around cultural homage versus appropriation continues, and so does the anticipation around the latest drop.
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